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The second hand clothing industry is facing changes. This
industry consists of collecting post consumer textiles; the
majority of the organizations in this industry are charitable.
The collection method is via containers in public places. The
primary changes lie in exportable clothing. First of all the
percentage of the overall collection of second hand clothes that
can be re-worn is decreasing, secondly the export markets
(Eastern European and African countries) are receiving cheaper
first hand clothing e.g. from China.
One of these second hand post consumer textiles companies in the
Netherlands is KICI. KICI is aware of this change in the sector
and to respond pro-actively, has initiated investigations into
sustainable innovations regarding non re-wearable textiles. To
support that process KICI has among other things asked Enviu to
recruit students who can develop various feasible products from
the non re-wearable textiles.
Alexander Regeer, Matthijs Pepping and Sander Jongerius were
amongst others recruited by Enviu as interns and graduation
students for KICI. Since then Enviu has followed these
university graduates through to their final products giving
supervision and guidance. The interns are all contributing in
their own way to realizing the ambition of KICI: finding new
sustainable ways to re-use old clothes as part of the overall
strategy of making their chain (collection, sorting, exporting
or recycling) more transparent, sustainable and innovative. Each
of them is exploring solutions to increase the life time of non
re-wearable textiles.
Matthijs, is taking his masters in industrial design and was
accepted for a graduation assignment at KICI. He has been
exploring various sustainable consumer product designs made from
the material of second-hand clothing. Several brainstorms with
volunteers and Young Professionals were organised to generate
ideas. Matthijs’ ambition was to create products that are Cradle
to Cradle (C2C) label worthy, meaning that each product can be
disassembled into various materials that can be re-used for a
new lifecycle (in the biosphere, or techno-sphere). As Matthijs
found out, this proved a difficult aspiration to attain because
the material used (non re-useable clothing) for the products are
not originally based on C2C standards. So far Matthijs has
realized that in general within eco-design, most products are
far from C2C worthy. Despite this he believes that the future of
C2C and sustainable products is feasible as it lowers costs by
re-using old materials, thus becoming more efficient.
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Alexander got in contact with Enviu
and the internship via his university teacher. He had an interview
with Wouter Kersten at Enviu, and was chosen out of several other
candidates to take on this assignment for KICI and its partners. The
goal was to study previous developments and further develop the plan
to launch a machine that can identify fibres and colours of
clothing. This assignment has taken place at one of KICI’s partners,
Wieland Textiles B.V. This machine will create a whole new business
opportunity for KICI, Wieland and partners, as it will allow KICI to
cater to new value added applications from specific material mixes.
The ability to create significant volumes of specific mixes of
material from non re-wearable clothes at relatively low costs has
thus far not been possible.
Today the Dutch government is very eager to be innovating within the
cradle2cradle philosophy, integrating the concept into all
industries. The idea of creating closed loops very much corresponds
with the aims of the Dutch government regarding sustainability in
supply chains. Because of this, the project has a very good chance
to succeed. KICI is exploring the opportunities that the
C2C-philosophy could have for their business.
Sander, an industrial design student at the Rotterdam Hogeschool was
interviewed by Enviu midway through his project (the interview was
published in the December 2007 memo). His original assignment for
KICI was to design office furniture; ultimately he has created what
he calls a ‘living wall’ for offices, made from non re-wearable
clothes. This wall is made up of plates of pressed fibres from the
material of non re-wearable second hand clothes and can be produced
in different variations. His work has also opened up new
opportunities for the non wearable clothes industry tapping into new
sustainable business opportunities. A more detailed review of
Sander’s finished design is planned for an upcoming newsletter.
The results of these assignments are first steps towards new and
innovative business opportunities for a more sustainable second hand
clothing industry.
Read more at
project site>>
Contact person Marieke and
Wouter
For other Cradle to Cradle related developments at Enviu keep an eye
on upcoming Enviu publications. Contact Wouter if you have an idea
or want to know more.
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