February 2008   
 

newsletter
 

 
         
  5.    Sustainability innovations in the 2nd hand clothing industry  
 


The second hand clothing industry is facing changes. This industry consists of collecting post consumer textiles; the majority of the organizations in this industry are charitable. The collection method is via containers in public places. The primary changes lie in exportable clothing. First of all the percentage of the overall collection of second hand clothes that can be re-worn is decreasing, secondly the export markets (Eastern European and African countries) are receiving cheaper first hand clothing e.g. from China.


One of these second hand post consumer textiles companies in the Netherlands is KICI. KICI is aware of this change in the sector and to respond pro-actively, has initiated investigations into sustainable innovations regarding non re-wearable textiles. To support that process KICI has among other things asked Enviu to recruit students who can develop various feasible products from the non re-wearable textiles.


Alexander Regeer, Matthijs Pepping and Sander Jongerius were amongst others recruited by Enviu as interns and graduation students for KICI. Since then Enviu has followed these university graduates through to their final products giving supervision and guidance. The interns are all contributing in their own way to realizing the ambition of KICI: finding new sustainable ways to re-use old clothes as part of the overall strategy of making their chain (collection, sorting, exporting or recycling) more transparent, sustainable and innovative. Each of them is exploring solutions to increase the life time of non re-wearable textiles.


Matthijs, is taking his masters in industrial design and was accepted for a graduation assignment at KICI. He has been exploring various sustainable consumer product designs made from the material of second-hand clothing. Several brainstorms with volunteers and Young Professionals were organised to generate ideas. Matthijs’ ambition was to create products that are Cradle to Cradle (C2C) label worthy, meaning that each product can be disassembled into various materials that can be re-used for a new lifecycle (in the biosphere, or techno-sphere). As Matthijs found out, this proved a difficult aspiration to attain because the material used (non re-useable clothing) for the products are not originally based on C2C standards. So far Matthijs has realized that in general within eco-design, most products are far from C2C worthy. Despite this he believes that the future of C2C and sustainable products is feasible as it lowers costs by re-using old materials, thus becoming more efficient. 


 


 

 

Alexander got in contact with Enviu and the internship via his university teacher. He had an interview with Wouter Kersten at Enviu, and was chosen out of several other candidates to take on this assignment for KICI and its partners. The goal was to study previous developments and further develop the plan to launch a machine that can identify fibres and colours of clothing. This assignment has taken place at one of KICI’s partners, Wieland Textiles B.V. This machine will create a whole new business opportunity for KICI, Wieland and partners, as it will allow KICI to cater to new value added applications from specific material mixes. The ability to create significant volumes of specific mixes of material from non re-wearable clothes at relatively low costs has thus far not been possible.


Today the Dutch government is very eager to be innovating within the cradle2cradle philosophy, integrating the concept into all industries. The idea of creating closed loops very much corresponds with the aims of the Dutch government regarding sustainability in supply chains. Because of this, the project has a very good chance to succeed. KICI is exploring the opportunities that the C2C-philosophy could have for their business.


Sander, an industrial design student at the Rotterdam Hogeschool was interviewed by Enviu midway through his project (the interview was published in the December 2007 memo). His original assignment for KICI was to design office furniture; ultimately he has created what he calls a ‘living wall’ for offices, made from non re-wearable clothes. This wall is made up of plates of pressed fibres from the material of non re-wearable second hand clothes and can be produced in different variations. His work has also opened up new opportunities for the non wearable clothes industry tapping into new sustainable business opportunities. A more detailed review of Sander’s finished design is planned for an upcoming newsletter.


The results of these assignments are first steps towards new and innovative business opportunities for a more sustainable second hand clothing industry.

Read more at project site>>


Contact person Marieke and Wouter


For other Cradle to Cradle related developments at Enviu keep an eye on upcoming Enviu publications. Contact Wouter if you have an idea or want to know more.
 

 

 
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